In 2012, Raf Simons substituted the best designer of Dior since Monsieur Christian himself. Galliano stepped down after a scandal involving alcohol abuse and Nazi jokes, putting an end to a reign of romantic and elegant ready-to-wear and dreamy and lush haute-couture collections. Unfortunately, his substitute made a point of doing something completely different.
It’s only normal that Simons wanted to distance himself from Galliano’s heritage since it would be impossible to level to his outstanding style. But he didn’t have to mischaracterize Dior! At the haute-couture collection AW2014, recently showed in Paris, he presented a woman with loose hair, baggy pants, jumpsuits, oversized jackets and dresses far away from the classic Dior silhouette.
When I opened Dior’s newsletter, I couldn’t believe my eyes. It looked like a Jil Sander collection (where Simons worked before, by the way), which it’s not a bad thing, but simply a parallel universe form Dior’s style codes. The fans don’t want to see an Avant-garde collection, nor simple and efficient clothes. They don’t want Couture to resemble ready-to-wear collections. A Dior couture piece has to be a masterpiece, something unique that makes us dream of fairy tales. It can’t be something modern and minimal, which can be found elsewhere.
Fashion editors may stand for Simons, may give him standing ovations, and may agree on his “disrupt conventions” approach. But fans will keep on being outraged and write thing like “Simons stabs The House of Dior every six months”. Here are a few images from the Belgium disaster. Please, bring Galliano back.
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